Monday, October 17, 2011

So...What's REALLY The Scoop on DEEP CONDITIONING?




Hola Chica/Chicos...I pray all is well with everyone.
Ok, this is an interesting post today. The myths and truths on Deep Conditioning. Now, we have all heard of the benefits of deep conditioning. The time frame of how to get that really great intense deep conditioning. The goodies to add to the deep conditioning.  And the wonderful use of heat (steamer or heat cap) to get that really beneficial deep conditioning. So, what's really the scoop? Well, doing a bit of research came as a surprise to me as much as it may to you on the facts that I found. Oh, and lest I forget, I did my own experiment to see just what the scoop really is on Deep Conditioning.


DEEP CONDITIONING..DOES IT REALLY HELP?
  • Well, let's break down why we would need to deep condition. When we shampoo, it removes buildup as well as much of the sebum (oils) in our hair, leaving us with a squeaky clean scalp...so, conditioning replaces those oils, right? Well...it depends. When using a conditioner, many times it is benefiting the exterior or outside of the hair. They soften the hair, smooth the cuticle, minimize static and sometimes help lock in moisture from water. When we rinse our hair from conditioning, some of the conditioner is left behind, which is what give us the soft feeling. Deep conditioners formulated at lower ph levels do help to close the cuticle from being lifted during the cleansing process, which aids in less frizz, softening the hair and protecting the hair.

HOW ABOUT THAT HEAT WHEN DEEP CONDITIONING?
  • Well, let's just take a quick look at that..Now, we have all heard that when applying our deep conditioner, we should use heat to really get the most benefit out of our conditioner..Deep Conditioning to the MAX, right? Well, truth be told, most conditioners are made with ingredients that do not require the use of heat. So, in essence, using heat does not enhance the effectiveness. And, when a conditioner do say to use heat, there is no added benefit of applying heat for a longer period of time than the product recommends. 
  • Ok, so I took on the challenge to see if this is fact or fiction...Now, I applied my conditioner to my hair and used a heat cap. I applied conditioner to my mother's hair with no use of heat. For me, I stayed under my heat cap for 15 minutes. My mother, I had to place a plastic cap and keep the conditioner on for 5 minutes. The RESULTS... My hair was nice and soft, just as I stated above. My mother's hair, was super soft and moisturized...hmmm, the product: we both used the O'Natural Natty Moist conditioner. I couldn't believe it..5 minutes with no heat and she achieved wonderful results.
  • It takes 15 minutes for hair to become saturated in pure water, whereas it takes 18 hours or more with steam or heat (heat cap or steamer) (source: Robbins, Chemical and Physical Behaviour of Human Hair, Springer). So, applying water directly over your hair through wetting is more than likely more useful than steam or vapor.
  • Side Note: Those who have hair that is of low porosity would benefit from using heat with their conditioner as it helps to lift the cuticle allowing the beneficial ingredients to help moisturize the hair.

DEEP CONDITIONING..WHAT MAKES IT BENEFICIAL?
  • The greatest thing about a conditioner are the added benefits that are helpful to retaining moisture. So, are there ingredients that are helpful when using a conditioner? Absolutely, but first, let me say this. Conditioning does not open the cuticle, they are actually formulated at lower pH levels to help close the cuticle  restore moisture and soften the hair from shampooing.. So, what does actually open the cuticle? Products made at higher pH levels have the capability of opening the cuticle and as well as, relaxers, texturizers, hair dyes, bleaching can open the cuticle..but, these are products that also break down the protein structure of the hair and cause dryness and other issues. We don't want to leave the cuticle open due to exposure to dirt, fungi, bacteria and other contaminants..hence the importance of conditioners, especially those formulated at lower pH levels such as 4.5-5.5 .

DEEP CONDITIONING AND STYLISTS
  • Now, here's a great question. Why do stylist offer deep conditioning? Well, ultimately, you must ask your stylist this..but, here are a few reasons they may do this: (1)  She is using a conditioner that requires the use of heat (hence why you sit under the dryer)  (2) There is an up-charge associated with deep conditioning  (3) The time you sit under the dryer (anywhere from 20-45 minutes) is used to work on another client.

DEEP CONDITIONING...WHAT INGREDIENTS PENETRATE THE CUTICLE?
  • Ahhh hah, now here's the important question. There are a few things in conditioners that actually penetrate the cuticle, such as a panthenol, only a  few oils and water. These oils are: olive oil, coconut oil and avocado oil.

DEEP CONDITIONING..WHAT'S THE PROPER WAY TO USE
  • Be sure when applying your conditioner, apply from root to tip, thoroughly. 
  • Try not to just plop the conditioner on your top head. I like to part my hair and thoroughly apply to each section and really work it in. 
  • Wet your hair thoroughly as to ensure that it doesn't dry out while applying your conditioner. 
  • Try to look for conditioners that contain ingredients such as: olive oil, coconut oil or avocado oil, and if they do not, apply 1 TBSP of each and apply. Check out my how to condition video: HERE
  • If the conditioner softens in 25, 30, 45 minutes or even overnight, more than likely it would give you the same results in the recommended amount of the products directions of use. So, to sum it up, leaving the conditioner on for a longer period of time does not prove to be any more beneficial.

So, I hope this was as beneficial to you as it was to me..Now, you can continue to deep condition using your heat source or steam because it gives a wonderful feeling of treating ourselves, but just know, through my personal recent test, it doesn't provide any more benefits that just plain ole' applying, leaving it on for a few minutes, rinsing it out..hmmm, whouda thought.

Have a Happy Natty Day!!

credits: some info found at  source

3 comments:

  1. Great post! I have always thought that certain salon procedures were simple a way to make money. Thanks for the break down of the facts.
    Blessings!

    ReplyDelete
  2. Very helpful post. Actually, my stylist just told me a couple weeks ago that the steam in the shower is more beneficial than sitting under the dryer while doing a deep conditioner. Just received both your products today and can't wait to try them.

    ReplyDelete
  3. What opens or lifts the cuticle so that the DC can fully penetrate and be beneficial ?

    ReplyDelete